It seems a simple enough task to take care of your hair, but when clients arrive for a haircut, there’s usually a lot of restoration needed as well. It behooves the hairstylist to remove product buildup, use a gentle shampoo, and condition the client’s hair because everything we do, color, perm, and styling turns out better. Results can be compromised by mistreated, neglected hair, and that places a lot of undo responsibility on the practitioner. (“She fried my hair!”) It’s not fair to expect a beautician and a magician. Do your part at home and I guarantee a better experience at the salon.
After a haircut, hair looks and feels fabulous and clients innocently assume removal of the last few inches restored the entire head. The “back bar” (storage unit for shampoo and conditioner) is the salon equivalent to your shower. If you use what I use, then logically, you will have healthy luminous strands, right? RIGHT!
(Except if you are leaving the salon with brassy, flat, or greasy hair, then obviously don’t invest in those products and consider a more educated stylist. Would you let a surgeon remove body parts if they didn’t know the basics?)
Think of your hair as a flexible straw. Outside the hard protein cuticle bends and flexes like a snake’s skin. Inside the straw are color molecules (a different form of protein) and water. Anytime heat, peroxide, or detergent come into play, the cuticle scales open up. Sometimes they never close down again, causing the color protein and water to fall out. The surface becomes dull, the scales latch on to each other forming snarls, and the color fades. Here’s the most important part of my class. When these symptoms occur, it is not a signal to cut off hair, it’s a warning to check your hair care habits:
How effective is my shampoo? Do I use it because it smells good, comes in an eye-catching package, and is a few dollars less? How often do I condition? Do I know the difference between needing a protein conditioner or a moisturizer? Is my blow dryer set to”quick-bake”? Is my flat iron or curling iron made of metal? How often do I clarify? Have I installed a shower filter yet?
The most important factor in picking a shampoo is ph. If it’s not on the label, then they are not boasting the most important asset. I realize that if shampoo smells like easter candy or cough syrup, you won’t care what the ph is, but keep searching until you can bring the two factors together. I will have a short list at the bottom of this article to help you find your perfect shampoo.
Each company generally produces a protein restoring conditioner and a moisturizer. They are designed for fine or coarse hair, and some are rinse-out or leave-in.
(If you are using a “cream rinse” then you are layering your hair with wax and choking the life out of it, and you should contact me because you will need a good shaking and a detox!)
In the winter, all hair types will need a moisturizer, and if you have chemically treated hair, a protein conditioner will be essential to heal the cuticle that was opened by the chemical process. How do you know which one you need? It depends on whether your hair is straight or curly, and how oily your skin is. Static is a clue for moisturizer, lack of shine, split ends, and fading color means protein is needed.
To begin, shampoo with as little product necessary to get the job done. Use the pads of your fingers to gently massage your scalp. Then apply a rinse-out protein conditioner or moisturizer to all of the hair and give it at least 3-5 minutes to work and rinse. If you are using a leave-in conditioner then gently blot the delicate wet hair and apply product a few inches from scalp. If your hair is course, dry, and/or curly you can get closer.
I highly recommend a super absorbent Aquis hair towel because it easily absorbs the water so you spend less time drying with heat. Lower the time and temperature of your blow dryer – it’ll make a big difference! As for heat tools like irons, they should only be ceramic, toss away the metal it’s like a frying pan for your hair.
So you see, your crowning glory can be saved and enlightened.
You have the technology, you have the knowledge, now get in that shower and…POO!
World’s Greatest Conditioner - Lanza’s Trauma Treatment
This phenomenal leave-in protein reconstructor creates instant results, can be used on any hair texture, keeps the color from fading, and over time creates a perfect healthy cuticle. Can be used on dry hair like a pomade, or with a flat iron to keep hair super straight.
Other great shampoo and conditioner products:
Joico
Joico’s Body Lux and Silk Result shampoo/conditioners are the best, and well priced for the quality. I’ve used it for twenty years.
MOP (Modern Organic Products)
MOP makes a C shampoo that is like sunlight captured in a bottle, with an orange and mint fragrance, perfect for a fresh start every day. The ph of MOP shampoos is a little higher, so it would be best for non-chemically treated hair.
Malibu 2000
Malibu 2000 makes a wonderful clarifier called Udoo Goo. It is gentle and effective at removing styling product buildup. Their Swimmers Shampoo is the top of the chlorine remover list. The products contain enzymes, which does not disturb the cuticle.
I recommend all of Lanza’s many shampoos and conditioners. It’s really the best product line and everything smells fantastic. Even the packaging is supreme.
Friday, February 20, 2009
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